Road trip from Mostar to Sarajevo
So, now I am on the way from Mostar to Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
First of all, I would say that is was the preferred stretch of my road trip. (Check out my post on the entire self drive trip). The road was good and the surrounding nature was untouched and spectacular. The emerald green river flanking the road for quite a while was amazing.
Many crosses on the side of the road
On the other hand, rarely have I seen so many small and large cemeteries by the road side. The majority of them consisted of just white crosses standing in the middle of green fields. No entrance gate or fence. They are remembrance of the brutal Bosnian war.
Finally in Sarajevo
After several hours of driving I finally got to Sarajevo. As always, I had booked my accommodation very close by the city centre and the Bascarsija market. In fact, it was literally metres away from it.
From the balcony of my room I had a great view onto this major mosque of Sarajevo.
Emperor’s Mosque in Sarajevo
It is one of the important landmarks of Sarajevo. Built in 1457 after the Ottoman conquest of Bosnia and Herzegovina, it is an example of the classical Ottoman style of that time.
Apart from prayer time, it is open to be visited by tourists.
Sutlan’s residence
The first settlements of Sarajevo developed around this mosque. Close by, the architect Isa-Bey constructed this beautiful residence for the Sultan. He also built a hamman (public bath) and a bridge connecting both sides of the river. On the opposite side of the river, he developed a caravanserai – a road side inn.
Bascarsija or Old Bazaar in Sarajevo
The 15th Century Bascarsija was also built by Isa-Bey, architect, governor and Ottoman general of Sarajevo. The earthquake in 1640 and several fires outbreaks caused extensive damage. Finally, it was close to be totally devastated by troops of Prince Eugen of Savoy. It was decided to demolish the bazaar. Luckily, this eradication of this amazing place never materialize.
Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque
The main mosque of Sarajevo is the Gazi Husrev-Beg Mosque in Bascarsija. Built in 1530, it is the largest mosque in the country and among the most important Ottoman structures in town.
Noteworthy is that it is the first mosque in the world that used electricity.
Tourists are admitted albeit females have their separate entrance.
Morica Han in Sarajevo
The Morica Han was built in 1697. By the way, “Han” stands for Inn. So, the Morica Inn could accommodate 300 travellers and 70 horses. Nowadays, it is filled with restaurants, coffee houses, and shops selling carpets and locally produced items.
Having a snack there, fully immersed me into the local atmosphere of the town.
Coffee shop in the Bascarsija
Fulfill your duties as a tourist visiting the Catholic or Orthodox churches, the Synagogue, the tunnels, the spot where Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria was assassinated leading up to WWI and more.
Then, sit down in one of the many, very colorful coffee shops and enjoy the excellent Bosnian coffee. That is, if you like a very small and very strong cup of coffee.
East meets West
Continuing along the Bascarsija, I crossed this inlay marking a point where the East considered Ottoman and Islamic meets the West seen as Austro-Hungarian and Christian. Sarajevo is considered the “Jerusalem of Europe” due to its diverse ethnic and religious makeup having mosques, churches and synagogues all in one place.
Ferhadija Street
I left the Bascarsija behind with all its little shops and buzzing activities and I entered Ferhadija Street. It is lined by buildings of the Austro-Hungarian time and has a soberer atmosphere.
I found it really quite amazing that crossing this marker on the asphalt projected me into a different world. Actually, I would say it is somewhat sad. It shows that different religions and traditions are tolerated but not integrated and harmonised.
Sarajevo and the Austro-Hungarian Empire
Sarajevo did not expand significantly up until the 19thCentury i.e. until the occupation of the Austro-Hungarians. This was a period of great developments for Sarajevo. After a fire burned down a large part of the central city, room was made for some magnificent western architecture. In 1885, Sarajevo was the first city in Europe to have an electric tram network. The Austro-Hungarians tested this new way of transportation in Sarajevo before installing it in Vienna.
Markale market
The name derives from the German Language i.e. Markthalle which stands for a roofed market place.
Unfortunately, it is well remembered by locals of two terrible bombings in 1990s during the Bosnian war. Nowadays, it is great place to wander through.
My dinner in Sarajevo
As I do like a glass of wine with my dinner, I decided to remain in the Western part of Sarajevo as in the Eastern part no alcohol is served anywhere.
I found some bars offering a glass of wine or beer albeit no food. Finally, a barkeeper came up with a great suggestion. I would have my drink in his place and he would organize some food from a nearby restaurant on the “other side of the border”.
He came back with the best Cevapi I have ever had and I could enjoy it with a nice glass of wine. The Cevapi is a very local dish and consists of oblong kebabs from lamb or beef. They are grilled and served with sour cream. Very tasty!
White Bastion overlooking Sarajevo
Just before continuing my trip, I found the ruined Castle of Bijela Tabija in the far East of Sarajevo.
Unfortunately, it is in poor and decaying condition. It was severely damaged during the long siege of Sarajevo during the Bosnian war. Plans to refurbish it do exist but have yet to materialise.
Concluding, Sarajevo is definitely a place to visit. Especially if you enjoy a potpourri of cultures.
By the way, I visited Sarajevo in June hence I thought it would be pleasantly warm. Well, during the day, temperatures just reached 18-20 degrees and after sunset, temperature would plumb down to 6 degrees. Just so that you know.
Great post