Pit stop during my drive from Siena to Assisi
I was on my way on a secondary road from Siena to Assisi driving through some amazing country side. It was slow going but that was ok as I could enjoy the scenery. Around the Pienza area, I noticed all those little stalls by the road selling local produce and could not refrain from stopping at one of them.
Pecorino Cheese
Well, I got the best Pecorino cheese directly from the farmer and also some excellent Montepulciano red wine. In other words, dinner later on was organised.
But then it was really time to get back on the road and get to Assisi.
Arrived to Assisi but what do I do with my car?
After the car parking dilemma of Siena, I was a bit weary of having the same problem in Assisi. In fact, all of central town was again restricted. However, the hotel had a great arrangement with a garage which, at first impression, seemed somewhat distant. But, from the garage I found an elevator. It took me up the hill three floors followed by a three escalators ending up barely 50 meters from the hotel.
My accommodation
I stayed at the Residenza D’epoca San Crispino. After the disappointing experience in Siena, this seemed paradise. The location, the staff, my large room with a living/dining area, kitchenette, terrace with access to the garden.
Great location
In this hotel I was not only very close to the main sights of Assisi but right in the urban area of town.
I loved the little coffee shop just across the road. For me, it represented the charm of any historic Italian town.
Church of Saint Francis in Assisi
I obviously had to visit the Basilica di San Francesco. It is probably the main attraction of Assisi. Unfortunately, the internal patio was being prepared for a TV show so all was a bit messy. The waitress at breakfast had informed me. She was all excited about it and could not believe that I was not going to attend the event.
Having said that, I loved the interior of the church, the crypt, the upper basilica. Actually, pretty much everything was amazing. Another astonishing fact was that although the place was pretty overcrowded, there was still this serene vibe all around.
Strictly no photography inside the church
There was strict no photographing inside. The security guards on duty were very on the spot. I was a bit amused by the number of visiting nuns that were reprimanded more than once by them for taking pictures with their cell phones.
Church park
I respected the sanctity of the place including the prohibition of photographing (so, sorry no pics of the interior).
But I did take a picture of the splendid garden in front of the upper basilica.
“New Church”
I highly recommend to visit the Chiesa Nuova. It is built on the ruins of Saint Francis’ parental home. A book on a pulpit near the entrance recounts his life. It is not so much based on religion but more describing him as a human being. Albeit, you need to know Italian.
Mother’s love
One of the side doors in the church leads to the still existing entrance of the former mansion of the family.
There is a plaque citing the mother of Francesco that, although people of town were deriding her family for having a son that denounced the family wealth and chose to live as a beggar, she stood by him.
Her attitude was contrary to that of his father who was highly indignant about his son’s conversion to poverty and threatened and beat him repeatedly.
Medieval Castle in Assisi
The town is dominated by two medieval castles.
The Rocca Maggiore was built in 1366 and later expanded by Popes Pius II and Paul III while the Eremo dell Carceri has only partially been preserved.
Great hike
Having said that, it is a great walk from Assisi. Higher up, the country road passes through a beautiful forest.
If not into walking, you can have a taxi deliver you in front of the entrance gate. There is also a private car parking however it is somewhat distant from the site.
Porziuncola near Assisi
Another place I really liked was the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli some 3 km from Assisi. It hosts the Porziuncola i.e. a small chapel around which the Basilica was built.
Originally, the run down chapel was located on a small piece of land, i.e. a “porziuncula”. This later gave the name to the chapel. At the time, Francesco d’Assisi sold his horse and cloths and used the money to renovate the chapel. He built a little hut for himself near the chapel and was soon joined by others. This was the beginning of the Franciscan movement.
Many more major sites to see
Assisi offers plenty of other sites to visit such as the Temple of Minerva, Cathedral of San Rufino, Basilica of Santa Chiara, Santa Maria Maggiore and so on.
But I like exploring
But, as I always do, I just wanted to wander around.
I wanted to walk in the narrow streets. Discover little corners and peek into intriguing alleys.
Entrance gate
This is one of the entrance gates of Assisi. I found the view onto the distant landscape quite intriguing.
And I am definitely a fan of the geranium flowers growing everywhere. They are so decorative.
Food stores
The variety of hams available in this little shop was astonishing. I tasted the different prosciuttos accompanied with a good local wine.
And then there are the ice-cream parlours.
Lastly, a bit of historical facts on the town and Saint Francis of Assisi
Assisi’s history goes back to 1000 BC when immigrants settled in the hills in Umbria. Around 450 BC, Etruscans gradually took over the area before Romans took control. In fact, a number of Roman ruins can be found in and around town. In 238 AD, Assisi was converted to Christianity. It got close to totally destroyed by the Ostrogoths in 545 AD.
Birthplace of a Saint
In the 11th century, Assisi became an independent Ghibelline commune. It was at that time that Francesco di Bernardone was born to a wealthy family of town. His mother named him Giovanni. However, when the rather imposing and harsh father returned to Assisi from France, he changed the name to Francesco.
Saint Francis of Assisi
It appears that initially Francesco was a bit of a “party boy”. Up until the point when he was taken prisoner during one of the many battles against the rulers of Perugia. This experience set into motion his renouncing wealth and living as a poor beggar.
Founding of the Franciscan order
He soon came to be known as Francesco d’Assisi. Among a number of other things, he is remembered for is that he was a nature loving person. He founded the Franciscan order and, together with St. Catherine of Siena, is the patron saint of Italy.
Pilgrimage site
Assisi is now a site of many pilgrimages. I was astounded at the level of devotion pilgrims demonstrated for him in the Basilica in front of my eyes.
Unfortunately, the town was hit by two heavy earthquakes in 1997 causing massive damage to a large part of the Basilica. However, two years later it was restored and reopened to the public.
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Final comment on my visit to Assisi
I definitely recommend visiting Assisi. This little medieval town is not only absolutely charming but, as already mentioned, it has something special about it.
But apart from the town, it is the Umbria region that needs to be seen. Best in a self drive trip. There is a reason why, together with Tuscany, it is considered one of the most beautiful areas of Italy.
Heading off to my next destination
After (unfortunately) only one night in the marvelous San Crispino accommodation, it was time to head to the Republic of San Marino.
Check out the other places that I visited during my road trip in this area of Italy.
FLORENCE AND THE CALCIO STORICO
SELF DRIVE ROAD TRIP IN TUSCANY, UMBRIA, MARCHE
ENJOY THE READ !
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