Siena
Origins of Siena
Siena has its origins with the Etruscans around 900-400 BC. However, according to a local legend, it was founded by Senius and Aschius who were the two sons of Remus thus nephews of Romulus.
Sons of Remus
After their father was killed by Romulus, they escaped taking with them the statue of the wolf suckling the infants which became the symbol of the Siena. The legend continues that they rode a white and a black horse. They are incorporated in the code of arms of the town.
Isolated until the Lombards arrived
Siena remained rather isolated due to the lack of roads up until the Lombards invaded the area and redirected the trade routes through Siena. The town prospered and its population rose to some 50,000 inhabitants.
Republic of Siena
Sometime around 1100, Siena became the Republic of Siena up until it surrendered to Spain during the 1151-1159 Italian War. However, since the Spanish King was heavily in debt with the Medici, he surrendered Siena to the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. It remained under its rule until the unification of Italy in the 19th century.
Arriving in Siena
Reading through the parking instructions provided by the hotel, I ultimately decided to make use of the valley service which worked out fine. The service cost me 25 Euros one way.
My accommodation unfortunately was not up to what it had promised when I reserved it. However, it was very well located right in the centre of Siena.
Piazza del Campo in Siena
The shell-shaped square is surrounded by great buildings including the Palazzo Publico with its tall Torre del Mangia. The Palazzo hosts a couple of important art museums.
The square hosts the annual Palio di Siena. More on that later in my post.
Restaurants on the square
I found a large number of restaurants on the square geared towards tourists.
While the atmosphere was pleasant, the food was not the best and expensive. Better to try out some other places in town.
Cathedral of Siena and Baptistry
Construction of the Cathedral of Siena commenced in the 12th century and represents a masterpiece of Roman-Gothic architecture.
Original building plan
The original plan was to build a massive basilica – the largest of the world at that time. However, due to financial constraints due to the war and the plague, this plan was abandoned. Still, the black, pink and white marble and the facade rich with golden decor is awesome.
Inside the Cathedral of Siena
After a little waiting time at the entrance, I finally was allowed in. I have to say, I was absolutely blown away by the beauty of the interior. The first impression are the black and white columns. Once this settles in, the view goes to the splendid altar and then to the art works of Michel Angelo, Donatello and others. I had the felling of having entered a museum.
Great view from the Dom
After passing a couple of hours absorbing the splendour, I joined a guided group climbing up the 79 steps to the top of cupola. The effort was worthwhile as I got a great birds eye view of the interior the cathedral of Siena. From the exterior balcony, the view of the surroundings were amazing.
Piccolomini Library in the Cathedral of Siena
I could not imagine that anything here could overtrump the impressive interior of the Cathedral of Siena. But then I got into the Piccolomini Library. It is accessible from inside of the cathedral. Just one word: overwhelming!!
Baptistry near the Cathedral of Siena
Next, I visited the Baptistery which is just around the corner of the cathedral at the bottom of a flight of stairs. And again, I was very impressed by the beauty of it.
Ancient hospital
The ancient hospital is located on the square of the cathedral. It was built for the purpose of the taking care of the health of the poor of the area. The hospital wards and the adjacent church are worth a visit.
Wandering around Siena
As always, I enjoyed wandering around town and absorb the local flair and observe the locals.
Don’t forget to peak
Do not forget to peak into the many patios on the way. Some offer great art work to discover.
Ceramics of Siena
Siena has a long tradition of manufacturing ceramics. Some of them carry motives related to the Palio. Others fit perfectly in a country with the designs of fruits and flowers.
There are a number of shops around town. I found that the best one is near the entrance of the Baptistry.
Local produce
I also found a number of appealing shops selling the local produce. The cold pressed olive oil of Tuscany is famous in the world. And so are the cheese, excellent red wine and all the spices you would need for a good pasta.
No danger of going hungry
There is no danger of going hungry during the day but what to get? An ice cream or rather go for one of these great looking “paninos”.
Palio di Siena in Piazza del Campo
Finally, I could not write about Siena without mentioning the Palio di Siena.
The Palio takes its origin in the 16th Century when bull fighting was outlawed in Siena. To replace it, the “Contradas” (neighbourhoods) organised a horse race around the main square of town instead.
The Palio di Siena today
It takes place on the Piazza del Campo twice a year. On 2 July which is also the date of the festival honouring the Madonna di Provenzano. The second date, 16 August, corresponds to the Feast of the Assumption dedicated to the Virgin Maria.
The horse race
The race only takes a bit more than a minute. No saddles are used thus several riders end up falling off the horse. Interestingly enough, even if the horse has lost its rider it can still win the race. The trophy consists of a banner bearing the image of the Virgin Mary.
This horse race seems to affect everybody and everything in Siena. The Palio will determine how the rest of the year is spent of the various Contradas – in glory or mourning.
Some tips on Siena
Combined entrance ticket for the Cathedral and the Baptistry
Near the cathedral of Siena, it took me a while to buy the entrance ticket. I got the combined one which included the Cathedral and the Get Piccolomini Library, the ascend to the top of the cupola, the Baptistery, and the Crypt.
Get there early
I was glad that I got there early thus getting access into the cathedral with the first in let which was around 10:30.
No coffee shops or restaurants on this square
By the way, I noticed that contrary to other historical centers, there are no open air coffee shops or restaurants in this square. Only adjacent to the tourist office, there is an indoor snack bar.
Audio equipment
Entering the cathedral, I was blown away by its beauty. But before admiring the place, I rented the audio equipment for 5 Euros from the little desk inside the cathedral. As they kept my ID, I was allowed to keep it for the entire time I needed it, even when leaving the cathedral to go to visit the two adjacent sites.
The money was well spent, as the recording explained very well the history of the place, the black and white columns, the amazing mosaics on the floor telling entire stories, and the marvelous paintings covering the walls.
Travelling by car?
Check out my tips when arriving in a car on my post Self drive road trip in Tuscany, Umbria, Marche
Time to get back on the road
After two nights in Siena it was time to continue my trip. I did the country road from Siena to Assisi passing by Pienza. It was amazingly scenic and beautiful and is absolutely recommendable.
Check out the other places that I visited during my road trip in this area of Italy.
FLORENCE AND THE CALCIO STORICO
ENJOY THE READ !
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