Fernando de Noronha, an island to visit in Brazil
I have been hearing about Fernando de Noronha off the Brazilian coast for some time. It is described as the Brazilian Caribbean with the best beaches of South America. It is also said to be a scuba diver’s paradise. So, I decided to check it out for myself.
It is an archipelago
Fernando de Noronha is an archipelago some 350 km off the Brazilian coast made up of a chunk of volcanic rocks. The main island has an area of some 18km2 with approximately 3000 permanent residents. It was first discovered in 1503 by a Portuguese expedition. However, there are conflicting recounts on who really was the first to arrive.
Former prison island
In late 18th Century, Fernando de Noronha was turned into a prison island for gypsies and slaves. In 1942, an airport was constructed by the US Army for the Natal-Dakar route. It provided a link between Brazil and West Africa for cargo, transiting aircrafts and personnel.
Two very different sides
There are two very different sides of the island. One is facing the Brazilian mainland with gorgeous beaches. The other is facing the Atlantic Ocean with high cliffs and waves crashing onto the shore.
Protected coastal marine land
Nowadays, Fernando de Noronha is a protected coastal marine land. It is also a national park which was included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.
Apart from fish, some fruits and coconuts, all is flown in by plane or brought in by ships.
Getting to Fernando de Noronha
I took one of the daily direct AZUL flights from Natal, Rio Grande do Norte. It lasted just a bit over an hour.
Environment Tax
On arrival, I had to complete some forms and then pay the Environment Protection Tax. The amount was determined according to the number of nights I would be spending on the island.
My accommodation.
I stayed at the Pousada Simpatico which turned out to be very pleasant. The manager of the Pousada was very helpful and spoke perfect English. This place is in a great location close by to a number of bars, restaurants and beaches.
Organizing my stay on Fernando de Noronha
There are several companies to choose from. With very little variations in their tours due to the size of the island I decided to book two outings with Costa Blue. The first was the full day island tour by car. The second, a three-hour boat expedition.
Albeit, I needed to pay the Environmental Preservation Fee. This allowed me entrance to the various national marine parks covering two thirds of the island.
Full day discovery of Fernando de Noronha
I was picked up at 8am from my accommodation. The first stop was at a shop were we could rent snorkelling equipment. It included a life jacket for not so confident swimmers. I found the equipment in good condition and not expensive.
Beaches of Fernando de Noronha
Baia do Sueste
The first stop was Baia do Sueste for some snorkelling. At first, I was bit disappointed. My mood improved when we started seeing great numbers of diverse fish, turtles, stingrays and baby sharks. At high tide, larger sharks enter the bay looking for their dinner so, no swimming then.
Beaches of Fernando de Noronha – Praia Leao
Next stop was a bit further down the road. At first glance, the beach was quite spectacular. However, signs warned of strong and dangerous currents. Nevertheless, we went for another snorkelling outing near the rock seen in the picture. You need be a fearless swimmer as the currents and the waves are rather hefty.
Praia da Cacimba do Padre is among the beaches to visit in Fernando de Noronha
Next we got to the Priests Water Well Beach. From December to April, the tube waves are similar to the ones found in Hawaii. Access to the beach is prohibited from 8pm to 8am in protection of marine turtles as it is their hitching place (Dec-Jun).
Ilhas dois Irmaos
A short walk took us to the Twin Brothers Hills which consist of two similar rocky lava formations in the water. It is possible to climb over the rocks and get to Baia dos Porcos. From there, the view onto Praia Sancho is amazing.
Rasa, Secondary Island
It is the Archipelago’s largest secondary island with a little chapel and a lighthouse. It comes to life during the Saint Peter Party on 29 June. A religious boat procession praising the fishermen’s protector Saint takes place.
Tubaroes Museu
We then proceeded to the Sharks Museum. I have to admit that I was not that interested in visiting the place. However, inside I found plenty of information on local sharks which did catch my attention as I planned to go scuba diving. All this information on local sharks made me wonder if that was a good idea.
I considered booking a ride on a funny looking glass bottom boat that reminded me of Moby Dick tales.
Baia dos Golphinos
After the museum, we went off for an easy hike on a walkway on the cliffs overlooking Baia dos Golphinos.
If you get there early in the morning, you might actually get to see some dolphins.
Best beach of Fernando de Noronha – Baia dos Sancho
We could also admire Baia dos Sancho, one of the prettiest beaches of them all. It is possible to access it by descending some 30 meters over a rather adventures vertical ladder.
Sunset at Forte de Sao Pedro do Boldro
But it was late in the day and we had to rush to the ruins of the Fortress. This is a gathering point for All on the island to watch the sun displaying its magic before wandering off.
Boat trip to Dolphins Bay in Fernando de Noronha
The following day I joined the three-hour boat tour for some dolphin spotting and snorkelling. This amazing sailboat was my ride.
Dolphines
Before even reaching Dolphins Bay, these beautiful and curious mammals started surrounding our boat and following us.
The amazing thing was that the prime spot appeared to be inches away from of the ship’ s bow. They were pushing each other out of the way in order to have that spot.
Morro Pico
Next day, I took a walk on the beach from Praia do Melo to Praia Conceicao passing Morro Pico. This is the highest elevation of the island.
Beaches are connected during low tide in Fernando de Noronha
The beaches are all connected during low tide albeit there are couple of rocky areas. Great photo opportunities as these fishermen catching bait for nightly boat trips.
Praia do Cachorro
I headed back to Praia do Cachorro passing by the Reduto de Sant’Ana, a defensive fortification build in the middle of the 18th century. It is also known as “salgadeira” (salty place) as prisoners used this place to salt the fish caught during the day.
Remote Beaches are the main reason why people come to Fernando de Noronha
In Fernando de Noronha pretty much everything evolves around the beautiful deserted beaches, snorkelling, scuba diving and sunsets.
Conclusion on Fernando de Noronha
Finally, let me say that if you love beautiful and very solitary beaches you are out for a great experience. Snorkelling and scuba diving are great. However, it is not the best place for swimming. It is also pretty expensive compared to what you receive for your money.
I have done several posts on this location. They include tips on Fernando de Noronha, things to do, scuba diving.
Enjoy the read!
Thanks for the post and information! It is very useful! We are heading there at the end of June 2023!
Glad to be of help. End of June – normally, you might encounter some rain however still in very warm temperatures. So I would suggest that you pack your bags accordingly.