Parnaiba Delta in Brazil – my boat trip

I have been hearing a lot about the Parnaiba Delta Environmental Protection Area in the northeast of Brazil. To be exact, it is located between the States Maranhao and Piaui. Covering 2700km2 and comprising over 70 islands, it is the largest Delta in the Americas.

The Parnaiba Delta is comparable to few others

It offers a combination of amazing landscape, sand dunes, lagoons, salt and sweet water.  This rare phenomena is only found in the Nile and the Mekong areas. In addition, a very diversified wildlife can be found.

Tutoia, my starting port

I was doing the famous Route of Emotions by car from Sao Luis to Fortaleza with several stops in between. From Barreirinhas, it took me one hour and a half on the road to get to the little port town of Tutoia. Here my boat ride was waiting for me.

Unfortunately, the weather was not in my favour. In fact, I did not see Tutoia from its best side as it had been raining extensively. But judge for yourself.

Getting to the port

When I got to the little port of Tutoia, the only anchored speed boat was this 12-seater (image on the left side). I obviously assumed that this was going to be my transportation.

But I was wrong. In fact, after some 10 minutes my ride arrived. The boat was a lot smaller but had a more powerful engine so I did not complain. And, I was going to be the only passenger. Honestly, I was a bit weary about this. It was going to be just me and the captain in the middle of nowhere. I decided to be on my guard.

Speed boats on the River Parnaiba
Speed boats on the River Parnaiba

And off I go for my boat tour of the Parnaiba Delta

After filling the tanks with gasoline, we lifted anchor and started exiting the port area of Tutoia. Pretty soon we passed an abandoned salt mining plant and a couple of docked ships.

I asked my captain what the story was with the salt mining plant. While he did understand my question, unfortunately, I could not understand his response.

Normally in Brazil, I actually get on pretty well with a mixture of Spanish/Italian/French, but his dialect was to much for me.

Abandoned salt mine
Rio Parnaiba

Crossing to the other side of the Parnaiba Delta

After crossing the humongous delta, we finally reached the other side. I did not include images of the actual crossing of the Parnaiba Delta as all I could see was a huge extension of water. Up until we reached the other side.

Getting into the labyrinth of channels

It got really interesting when we started entering the labyrinth of channels. I was glad that the captain knew where he was going as I would have lost my way pretty soon. The shore on both sides started to close in.

Parnaiba Delta
Parnaiba Delta

Getting close to the ocean again and sand dunes

After passing Ilha do Caju we continued to Ilha das Canaries (follow the red line on the included map of the Delta). There we made a little pit stop on a pretty much deserted and sandy island.

Important for local fishermen

But for the local fisherman it is an important island for two reasons. One, when coming back from their fishing expeditions in the open sea, their fresh catch is pickup by other boats for forward distribution. Two, if they get caught up in bad weather, they take refuge here.

Sand dunes in the Delta
Pit stop in the Parnaiba Delta

Continuing the boat trip through the Parnaiba River Delta

From here on the environment changed again. We passed by another couple of sand dunes meaning we stayed sort of close to the ocean. And, slowly but surely, we were making our way back into civility.

Sand dunes in the Parnaiba Delta
Fisher village in the Delta Rio Parnaiba
Fisher men in the Delta Rio Parnaiba
Fisher men in the Delta Rio Parnaiba

Another couple of amazing stops during my boat trip

As we were so close to the river shore by now, my captain made a couple of stops to show me some local things.

Sweet water crabs

Lesson on crabs

He saw my interest in the crabs doing their thing in the mud so he wanted to teach me a bit about them.

Amazing bean turning into a flower

Next, he decided he wanted to show me this bean-like thing that, tapping on its top, opens up and turns into a flower.

And he wanted to show me these little fish

We got really close to the shore. The noise of the engine obviously caught the attention of some small fish living close to the shore line. They started speeding on the surface of the water.

Parnaiba Delta
Delta Rio Parnaiba

Lunch on the River Parnaiba

We have been cruising around for some 4 hours by now and it was time for lunch. “My captain” entered another little channel and stopped a this quite charming restaurant.

Restaurant on the River Parnaiba
Restaurant on the River Parnaiba

Last stop of my boat rip in the Parnaiba River Delta

My boat tour through the Delta ended at the little of Port of Parnaiba.

River Port of Parnaiba

Overnight in Parnaiba and then off to Jericoacoara

I was going to stay one night in Parnaiba. Tomorrow I am continuing the Route of Emotions. In fact, my next stop is Jericoacoara.

Conclusion

My initial fear of travelling alone through the Parnaiba River Delta proved to be unfounded. The captain of the boat turned out to be a rather taciturn but pleasant travel companion.

Would I do it again?

Unfortunately, on that day, the weather was not the best but I am definitely glad that I did this trip. The ever changing scenery was intriguing.

Small boat is good

I was also glad that I was in a small boat. Otherwise I would not have seen all those channels to narrow for bigger boats.

If not into a 5 hour long boat trip, you might consider using the Port of Parnaiba as starting point. I believe those trips last some 2 hours.

Route of Emotions

Check out my three related posts on this adventure road trip in the NE of Brazil:

Episode 1

Episode 2

Episode 3