Self drive trip through Tuscany, Umbria, Marche
Recently, I undertook a six-day road trip in Tuscany, Umbria, Marche regions of Italy. This sounds as if I spent most of the time in the car. However, this was not the case as distances between the major towns in the area are not that far and roads are very good.
Arriving in Florence
I rented a car with pick up near the airport. By the way, there is no car rental directly at the airport. However, there is a free shuttle bus just near exit hall that brings you to the car park.
Make sure that the office of your rental is in the general car rental compound as some have their office in different locations. And it is a bit complicated to get there let alone to find them.
From Florence to Volterra
I took the highway from Florence to Poggibonsi before heading direction San Gimignano on a secondary road continuing to Volterra. Both, Poggibonsi and San Gimignano, are worth a visit but they were not part of my travel plan.
Not as far as it sounds
The distance covered was barely 80 km.
It took me an hour and half of slow driving to reach Volterra.
No entering Volterra with a car
As the historic center of Volterra has restricted driving, I parked the car in one of the many public car parks just outside the walls of town. From there it is walking distance to the center.
From Volterra to Siena
After sprawling through Volterra for a couple of hours, it was time to head off. The SS (Strada Statale) and later the highway took me to Siena passing by Colle Val’Elsa. The distance covered was some 60 km and it took less than one hour driving to reach my destination.
Beware of driving in Siena’s historic centre
Beware of driving in Siena as the entire historic center is pedestrian zone. They do say you can drive there to unload your luggage and leave again without being fined.
But that is a bit tricky
But here comes the issue: Historic Siena is surrounded by a city wall. It has a number of entrance points where a camera will take a picture of your car passing. The issue is that you will then have to leave the area through the same entrance point.
This is close to impossible due to the various one way streets and the labyrinth type street system. Failing to leave through the same entrance point will make you 90 Euros poorer.
The suspicion did come up that this was a great money making machine for the administration of Siena.
I opted for the valley service
As the hotel in Siena offered a Valley service, I contacted the owner of the garage. Donato was waiting for me at his garage and safely delivered me and my luggage to the hotel for 25 Euros.
After two nights in Siena, it was time to head off to Assisi. It did cost me another 25 Euros to get back to my car. Having said that, it all worked out very well and at the end I believe I saved some money by not getting fined.
From Siena to Assisi
The first part of this self drive route was again on the SS.
Short before Montalcino, I decided to get on to secondary road as I wanted to enjoy the scenery.
Passing by Montalcino
Montalcino is the area where the world famous Brunello di Montalcino is produced. It passes for one of the best red wines worldwide. So, if you have time to spare, plan a stop at one of the many wineries.
Pienza
Continuing, I again took a secondary road to Pienza. It is renown for producing the best Pecorino cheese in Italy. Locals say that this is due to the fact that the pasture fields are located several hundred meters above sea level.
Make a pit stop
Take the time to stop at one of the many road side shops where you can buy the cheese directly from the producer.
In the shop I can assure that you will find the perfect local red wine that goes with it.
Montepulciano
Continuing the road trip, I headed to Montepulciano still on a country road. Do not forget to taste the red wine of this area as well which is in great competition with the red wine of Montalcino. I find both of them excellent.
Lago Trasimeno
From Montepulciano, I drove all the way to Lago Trasimeno still on a secondary road. There I took the highway for a little stretch to Assisi passing by Perugia.
Distance from Siena to Assisi is some 80-90 km and roads are very good. Driving time is a bit over one hour.
However, it took me some four hours to reach my destination due to the various stops at the wineries and cheese tasting on the road.
Assisi
Assisi is more relaxed about visitors driving into the historic centre. I guess because streets are wider and less of a spider web. You can get to your hotel and unload your luggage but still need to move the car within one hour. According to he hotel, no cameras here.
Garage Mojano
I was logged at the Residenza D’Epoca San Crispino which has a parking agreement for guests with it. It is located right at the bottom of the hill when getting into town. Initially, I thought that the ascend to the hotel might be a problem but the garage has an elevator connected to three escalators which took me to few meters distance from the hotel.
The 24-hour long parking cost me 8 Euros.
From Assis to San Marino
After one night in this marvelous hotel, I was on my way to the Republic of San Marino.
I traced my way back a few kilometers to Perugia and was then again on a secondary road direction Gubbio and Urbino. Both towns, but especially Urbino, are worth a stop albeit I only drove by.
Detour
Due to some road construction, I had to make a detour on a rather remote and very narrow road. But that was ok as the scenery was amazing. I had a great lunch snack of prosciutto and cheese in the only little bar on the road.
Non stop hairpin curves after Urbino
I might have exaggerated in my desire to drive on country roads as the stretch after Urbino was one hairpin curve after the other. And one mountain after the other. I am sure that there is a more direct country road.
Having said that, I wish I had a convertible to enjoy the ride even more.
For the reason mention before, driving was slow and it took me about three hours to make the approximately 100 km to reach San Marino.
Arriving to the Republic of San Marino
Theoretically, I was supposed to cross a border as I was entering another country. Albeit, there was just a little arch across the road announcing that I was now in the San Marino.
Best parking lot in San Marino is P6
I was by now used to the driving and parking problem in these historic towns. So, I researched before hand and found the parking lot P6 just outside the city wall had the best access to the historic center.
From the hotel I bought a ticket for the car for 4 Euros that paid for 24-hour parking.
On my way back to Florence
The following day it was time to head back to Florence to catch the plane. This time around I opted to take the highway passing by Bologna. I know, this sounds like a tremendous detour but I was advised that this is the fastest route.
Take the express highway
After Bologna, the highway divides itself into two parallel highways both going to Florence. One is the so called panoramic one and the other, newer one, is the express/direct one. I took the latter.
Endless tunnels
I have to say that rarely have I driven on a road that is basically composed of an endless series of very long tunnels cutting through the mountains. This obviously shortens the distance and I guess that is why they call it the express highway.
To do this stretch of road it took me three-four hours.
Conclusion
I enjoyed every moment of this road trip – even the hair pinned road as it was so amazingly scenic. Of course, I could have taken the highway and done the trip in 1/3 of the time but that was not the spirit of this trip.
Would I do it again?
Absolutely. The country side of these regions held their promise and proved to be marvelous. The wine tasting was great especially accompanied with some Pecorino cheese.
I did this road trip in six days. But I could imagine to take 10 days/two weeks or more to do the same self drive trip through these gorgeous regions of Italy.
Check out a more indebt description of the places I visited during this road trip:
THE CALCIO STORICO IN FLORENCE
ENJOY THE READ !
Many thanks Aurelia.
What a great country